December | 2012 | 4 feet 2 mouths

Archive for the month “December, 2012”

31 Dec 2012

Num Num ‘Nam in Saigon (by Carmen)

Sidewalk vendor in cone hat

We were especially excited for our first visit to Vietnam. I have always enjoyed the fresh flavors of Vietnamese cuisine. Crunchy herbs are a staple added to soups, noodles, eggs, sandwiches…everything really. Overall, what we read and heard about Vietnam indicated that it was a country full of people who love to eat well. And Vietnam is one of the few countries in Southeast Asia that has an abundance of locally brewed beer. In short, our kind of place. Armed with recommendations from our friend Tran and the Gastronomy blog, we were ready to take on Ho Chi Minh City (aka HCMC or Saigon).

A beautiful bành mí sandwich

Bahn mi essentials: crowded place, various meats and enjoyment.

Bành mí essentials: crowded place, various meats and enjoyment.

On our first afternoon we wound through the park outside of our hotel. They happened to be holding a culinary festival, complete with wok masters dancing to some club beats while stir frying away. We only paused to look because we were on a mission to get the best bành mí in the city. We found it at Bành Mí Huynh Hoa, a well known and consistently crowded storefront. Imagine six people stationed around a table rapidly chopping veggies and peppers while four others are assembling sandwiches at light speed. There is no counter to queue at. You simply nudge your way through the crowds towards one of the sandwich makers and get your order in. You then hungrily watch them make your sandwich, wrap it a piece of paper, place it in a bag and finally hand it over. And it was awesome. The pickled cucumber and carrot blended perfectly with the mix of pâtés and meat, all on a fresh hot bread roll and with just the right amount of hot pepper slices. Our first taste of Vietnam was already winning us over.

Hot steaming bowl of pho

Next up on our list of Vietnamese favorites was phở, a comforting and delicious soup. We selected Phở Hoa on Pasteur to do the honors. My beef pho came ready to be dressed up with basil, mint, bean sprouts and lots of lime, all of which are placed on the table for me. The springy rice noodles were perfect. We didn’t talk much as we enjoyed our soup among the many other patrons.

Fried chicken and garlic rice

The perfect spring roll

Over the days we followed the recommendations to more great eats. This included an excellent fried chicken with garlic rice at Xoi Che. Then there was the fried spring roll which you wrap with herbs and lettuce and dip in a spicy sweet sauce at Banh Xeo 46A. We even found the no name food stand with a blue awning that served rice and banana steamed in banana leaves and topped with coconut milk. It was all just so good!

Chinese statue at Jade Emperer Pagoda

Amid the snacks, we pagoda hopped around the city. Our favorite was the Jade Emperor Pagoda built in 1909. It was small and intimate and loaded with various statues representing demons and spirits. I watched quietly as people prayed with their incense. One man was even using oracle sticks to get some answers. We had a prayer too – to find delicious seafood. Fortunately, it was answered.

Soft shell crab in tamarind sauce at Quan 94

At Quan 94, we tucked into a delicious soft shell crab in tamarind sauce. This place smelled wonderfully of garlic such that my mouth watered as soon as I walked in.

Spicy pepper crab

Blood cockle in tamarind sauce

More seafood was to be had a little further out from the city center where we found a collection of street cafes specializing in shell fish. This time we got crab claws in a spicy pepper rub accompanied by blood cockles covered in tamarind and mussels with green garlic. Everything was amazing and well worth the trip to Saigon’s district four

Banh beo hue breakfast

Back in the city center for breakfast, at Thai Binh Market, we were aggressively accosted by the food vendors. We finally settled on one with a large crowd around it. The stall happened to be selling banh beo hue, a variety of small rice dumplings and cakes doused with more spicy sweet sauce.

Street coffee, note the pajamas as street wear look

Breakfast was complete with streetside coffee. As we sipped our brews sweetened with condensed milk, we watched the owner and his friend attempting to revive their prehistoric scooter. They pushed each other up and down the sidewalk and we sat laughing with their wives each time they almost swerved into a tree or hole in the sidewalk.

Sky deck view of Saigon looking west

While we walked around the city, we kept spotting a tall skyscraper in the distance. It was the Bitexco Financial Tower, Saigon’s tallest building at 68 stories. We paid for tickets to the glamorous sky deck for vast views over the sprawling city. While I was up there I kept thinking about the fact that this was a war zone 40 years ago. Now, I was looking down at the busy city streets from an ultra-modern air conditioned perch high in the sky. It amazes me how resilient cities and people are.

Banh can

Salad with raw fish and crisp garlic

Our glamorous sky deck had to be followed up by a swanky restaurant, which we were treated to by our friend’s relative. It was our first taste of banh can, which are little egg cups cooked over a fire. But the star of the show was a salad plate lined with slivers of a small silvery fish lining the edge, all topped with crisp garlic. All the sauces and herbs that accompanied our dishes delivered all the fresh flavors we love about vietnamese food. We were also very grateful that we were able to meet up with a local for an insiders perspective.

Broken rice with pork pie

Ok, one more breakfast. This one was called com tam, or broken rice. I believe they grind the rice until it is a very short grain. This makes the texture a little more like couscous. Served with a slice of pork casserole, we found it to be very comforting.

Street scene in the Pham Ngu Lao

Street scene with the ubiquitous hanging wires

Wow, this post was a little hard to write! There was so many good eats it turned into more of a food diary than travelogue. But I suppose that was our true experience of Saigon. A sort of city wide restaurant hop where we would order small dishes to save room for the next great find around the corner. Amid the tangle of traffic and electricity towers there are some great opportunities to find quiet pagodas, savory street snacks and boisterous beer halls. And the snowmen, snow flakes and santas around town reminded us the Christmas was just around the corner, even if it was 30C outside. The heat was intense and we were craving some cooler mountain air so we bid adieu to Saigon and wound our way into the mountains in Dalat.

Ho Chi Minh City snowmen

Posted in Southeast Asia, Vietnam and tagged Adventure, Big Cities, Food, Travel

24 Dec 2012

2 Comments

Eating Like a Local In Phnom Penh (by Nathan)

Bus ride snack of fried crickets

Nothing demonstrates local culture more than the food people eat. Yes, there is dance, language and tradition, but the day-to-day survival of humans depends on the consumption of local cuisine. The food of a region shows the struggle and the progress of the people. So when our bus stopped at a roadside stand and every Cambodian huddled around one stall I decided to get whatever the woman was selling. It turns out she was selling crickets, freshly fried and crispy crickets. I watched as little girls shared giggles of delight with their grandmas. My turn came and I was suddenly confronted with a choice: sesame seed or green onion and diced chilies. I sampled each with everyone staring and I ordered the spicier one. Imagine the best barbecue potato chip you have ever had, I’m talking caramelized onion, sweet potatoes; these were better! Excuse me, a leg just got caught in my teeth.

Sunset Phnom Penh

Our bus bounced along and the rice fields disappeared with the growth of a denser city and crowded streets. We arrived in Phnom Penh, we checked into our hotel and started walking. There is a nice and peaceful riverside sidewalk that is wonderful for sunset walks. We passed by the elaborate palace with its spectacular silhouette. We ended the night with a rooftop cocktail, a great start to a new city.

Central market soup

Sticky rice snacks

I think my favorite part of every city is the market. Every village or metropolis has some way for farmers, butchers and cooks to sell their life’s work. Our first destination was Phsar Thmei, the central market. After some confused meandering through stall after stall of clothing, watches, beauty products and mobile phones we finally found the hawker center. We sat down at two stools and two heaping steamy bowls were placed in front of us. We then mimed our way into getting extra limes and some iced tea. It was a breakfast for travel champions. Our savory soup lady shared her stall with a sweet soup lady. We ordered some rice, mung beans and red beans doused with coconut and condensed milks. Another woman was wrapping sweet fillings with sticky rice and banana leaves. Too full, we ordered some to snack on later.

Cambodian National Museum garden

The National Museum of Cambodia has beautiful traditional architecture surrounding a well-kept garden. The artifacts are mostly from Angkor temples and show a subtle progression of Buddha statues over time. The brief video that recreated ancient Angkor was excellent, but the explanations of the rest of the museum was rather poor. We really wanted to visit the palace, but the gates were locked shut as the country mourns the death (from old age) of their leader.

S-21 Concentration Camp

Cambodia has had a tumultuous and horrendous history. When they finally gained independence from France in the 1950’s the country was still led my a monarchy. This lasted until 1970 when a coup overthrew the king, but set off a civil war across the country. A handful of Paris educated men were excited for communism and they created the Khmer Rouge. They took control with promises of equality and better living for all. The Khmer rouge insisted that the country cease all outside influence and return to agrarian means of living. Thousands were forced to leave the cities and the educated were decimated.

One of the more sad experiences of this entire trip was that we visited Toul Sleng, a former school tuned into the S-21 concentration camp and the gateway for over 15,000 murders. The barbed wire, tiny cells, torturing devices and meticulous photo documentation are all in tact and graphically showing one of the low points in human existence. It was the North Vietnamese that eventually stopped this monstrosity. These were the same Vietnamese that the U.S. was fighting. And since the enemies of our enemies are…um…friends, the Khmer Rouge went into hiding with their warfare being supplied and funded by the U.S. Millions of American mines were placed into Cambodian soil. Two million mines still exist in Cambodia, they are armed and sensitive to the unlucky farmer, kid or animal that stumbles upon one. There is some amazing and brave work being done out there to identify and disarm these minefields. I encourage any visitor to Cambodia to visit the mining museum in Siem Reap and S-21 in Phnom Penh to gain perspective on modern warfare.

Russian market butcher

It is not surprising that after all this turmoil, that Cambodian cuisine remains quite simple compared to their neighbors. The extremism of the Khmer Rouge appears to have had had an affect of diluting and censoring the food as well. The flavors of Cambodian cuisine are rustic with a focus on fresh, and sometimes raw vegetables with a nuance of influence from Vietnam, Thailand and China. We went to the Russian Market for another, but different noodle breakfast. This market was less organized under rickety wood construction with mounds of vegetables next to cleavers slamming down through bone and flesh of fresh meat. The market was hot and hazy with humidity; we hovered over our noodles and we were already sweating at 9am.

Skewered delights, note the “Angry Bird” kebab

Night market dessert

We attempted to stay cool with some 50cent draft beers, but the heat was persistent. We ventured back onto the streets in search of the night market. We found twenty stalls selling the same barbecued and fried skewers. Why don’t they diversify? We sat cross-legged on a central mat with some bitter melon, chicken, short-ribs and sugar cane juice. Although tempted, we did not try the “angry bird” meat skewers. For dessert Carmen had banana and coconut pudding and I had shaved ice over various jellies and egg yolk dumplings with condensed milk over the top.

Breakfast pork, egg and rice

Our final morning in Phnom Penh was rushed as we embarked on a bus to Vietnam. With five minutes to spare, we squeezed between the tuk tuk drivers and sat on the tiny stool that rested a mere eight inches above the ground. We ordered the only thing she was serving- a plate of rice with some dried and re-grilled pork and a fried egg. A couple spoonfuls of diced chillies and they all smiled at us in astonishment. We are getting used to this whole eating like a local thing.

Posted in Cambodia, Southeast Asia and tagged Adventure, Food, Markets, Small Cities, Travel

21 Dec 2012

3 Comments

Badda Bing Battambang (by Carmen)

Market veggies

The only reason I had heard of Battambang is that a restaurant of the same name was near my office. I thought the name sounded exotic but was completely ignorant to the fact that it was an actual place. As I glanced through the guidebook to plan our Cambodia itinerary I had hoped to find a laid back town to break up our visits to the more tourist-ready Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Battambang (BB) seemed like just the ticket so off we went!

Vegetarian rice soup

Rice with savory “meats”

At a whopping 140,000 residents, BB is Cambodia’s 2nd largest city. But really it’s more of a town, easily traversed by foot or bike. One of the first places we walked was Vegetarian Foods. In meat crazy Asia even the veg restaurant specialized in imitation meats. They were indeed delicious, served over steamed rice or in a bowl of savory congee.

Bao-licious

Later, we were walking around the town soaking in the French colonial architecture. But of course we kept an eye open for good street eats and luckily we spied two. One was a huge steamed bun filled with peppery pork.

Nom krok

The other was nom krok, a type of gooey rice ebelskiver. As we walked past this one, I wasn’t entirely sure if the cakes the old woman was cooking were for sale or just for her family. Fortunately, the woman’s granddaughter, who was visiting from the US, was sitting nearby and helped us out. Soon enough we were sitting on our little plastic stools munching away happily. The cakes are a simple mixture of rice flour, coconut milk and green onions. They were served in a broth of more coconut milk, vinegar, fish sauce, and sweet chilies. The sweet savory combo was supremely satisfying. We waved goodbye to the grandma and her family and continued our walk with a big smile.

Sorry, I just had to share this temple statue

Along the way we stepped into a temple and encountered this. I’m not exactly sure what to say. It no doubt represents an important Buddhist story…in an extremely graphic way. But really, I guess it’s not too different from some Catholic paintings I’ve encountered that depict how the saints were martyred through decapitation, being prodded with hot irons, etc.

Battambang circus

That night we did something unexpected – we went to the circus. The Phare Ponleu Selpak group trains impoverished kids to become acrobatic performers good enough to tour the world. I liked the fact that this venue provided opportunities for children to have better futures. In fact many shops, and even cafes in Cambodia seem to be connected to an NGO that somehow assists the disadvantaged. As we sat waiting for the show to start, staff members of some of these NGOs sat behind us chatting about their everyday lives. It was nice to see so many people who were actively trying to improve other communities. As for the show itself, it was greatly entertaining with all the flips and feats of strength one could hope for.

Spring rolls with noodles

For an after circus snack we enjoyed a fried spring roll served over rice noodles. It was a little taste of the vietnamese flavors soon to come our way.

Central market building

Fish vendors

In the morning it was back to Cambodian cuisine, not just eating it but cooking it. We chose a cooking class at the Smokin’ Pot restaurant. Because of this Nathan insisted on calling the post “We (Went To) Bought-A-Bong and Spent Time (at) Smoking Pot,” but I thought badda bing came with more bang. Anyway, the classes have been taught for 12 years by the very knowledgeable and insightful owner. The first step was a visit to the market housed in an art deco creation left by the French. Our instructor pointed out what to look for in coconut, lemongrass, long beans, banana flowers and more.

Me cooking up some amok

Loklak close up

Back at the kitchen we sliced and diced garlic, lemongrass, chilies, and galangal to make a tasty paste. We squeezed fresh shaved coconut with water to make our very own coconut milk. Then we mixed these flavors with fish sauce, salt, sugar and chunks of fish to make amok, the national dish of Cambodia. It was delightfully rich and definitely tasted better since I made it myself. We went on to cook loklak, a simple peppery stir fry, and sautéed morning glory. I was very happy to get back in the kitchen after months of eating out.

Wat Ek Phnom

Buddhas Buddhas everywhere

With some extra time we decided to rent some bikes and cruise over to Wat Ek Phnom. It was built in a similar timeframe as Angkor Wat but was definitely left in a more rustic setting. I wonder if the cow appreciates the significance of the ruins it grazes on :) Nearby was a giant Buddha with a set of smaller Buddhas housed within its base.

BBQ’d eggs

We cycled over to the night market because we had to try something crazy we had seen – barbecued eggs! They were literally skewered and placed over hot coals. Once we cracked them open it seemed like they had been shaken since the yolk and whites had combined into a single delicious mass. I wondered why I had never thought of this before. Nathan ordered four brown eggs and one white egg from a different stack. It turns out the white one was very special, containing a partially formed chick inside. This delicacy is fairly common in Asian cuisines so we half expected it. But that night I wasn’t up for tasting it. Nathan reported that it was a mix of textures, a sort of soft and hard boiled egg rolled into one. But no strange tastes, just egg flavor.

Old window with scooter

I truly enjoyed Battambang . Our stopover provided insight into a less visited Cambodia. One where you can still bike past stilted houses and people wave hello. Yet, in the center, the colonial legacy and expat community results in cozy cafes and creative art galleries. It is the kind of place to spend an afternoon on a cafe patio watching the world go by. Battambang is a place to linger.

Posted in Cambodia, Southeast Asia and tagged Adventure, Markets, Towns, Travel

18 Dec 2012

6 Comments

An Adventure In Siem Reap & Angkor (by Nathan)

Sunrise Angkor Wat

Does it get more beautiful than that? A visit to Angkor Wat requires a journey, a good story to tell and some real adventure. We tried our best and this is what happened:

Here I am in my upper berth bed on the way to Bangkok

Crossing borders into developing countries is always an adventure. We had expected something along the lines of the Bolivian guns and egos that we experienced in April, but crossing into Cambodia was surprisingly smooth and safe. Go us! The challenge was that we decided to take transit from the middle of Thailand to the middle of Cambodia. And thirty hours later with six modes of transit, the trip was a success. Starting on Koh Tao Island we hopped in the back of a truck to taxi to the port, then a ferry boat to the mainland, then we took a regional bus to Chumphon and, crap, a three hour delay of our overnight train. Eventually we climbed onto our tiny upper bunks and we slept until morning when we arrived in Bangkok. We grabbed a local city bus to the edge of town, then a regional bus to the Cambodian border. With luck we could walk to the border, acquire visas and cross where we bargained for six of us (we met 3 new friends) to pile into a 90’s Honda accord. Another two and a half hours and we arrived in Siem Reap with spending only $46 each for 650 miles (1040km) of travel.

Bantaray Srei

Carving at Bantaray Srei

Bantaray Srei reflection pool

Siem Reap is the adjacent city to one of the most renown collection of temples and relics of an ancient empire. The historic city of Angkor was huge in the 1100’s with over one million people. Today all that remains are the temples and palaces that were built from stone. The most known building, Angkor Wat, is just one of twenty ornately carved and grandly built structures. On our first day we decided to ease into Angkor so we visited a temple further out called Banteay Srei. We walked in and out of doorways and around domed temples admiring the detailed carvings. Many of the figures address Hindu gods and stories as well as Buddhist elements because the king that built much of Angkor liked aspects of both religions.

Scootering family

Rice noodles, curries and coconut

Our mode of transit was a tuk tuk because some of the temples are 20 miles from Siem Reap. We hired a friendly man that carted us around for the day. Families would pass us on their scooters and the standing toddlers would wave to us shouting “hallo!”. For lunch we had to repeatedly tell “Smee,” our drivers name, to not take us to one of the tour bus restaurants. He undoubtedly wanted a commission, but we insisted on a little village center that had a few stands. We found a place that piled a heap of rice noodles onto a plate and scooped intense curry over the top of it. A basket filled with local greens sat on the table for us to add as we wished. We washed it down with a fresh coconut and we were off to see more temples.

Banteay Samré

Banteay Samré doorway

Banteay Samré was another beautiful temple. This one sits a little off the beaten tourist track, but we enjoyed exploring the nearly vacant complex imagining thousands of people living around and using this building daily.

Ta Som temple

Neak Pean walkway

Mid-way along our tuk tuk ride we decided that we should organize the places to visit a little better. We have to admit that we like to be better planned when we travel, but constant movement has made it difficult to know what we want to even do each day. Most of the Angkor sights are divided among a big circuit and a small circuit. We talked it over with Smee and then we were chugging along the road to more ancient ruins along the big circuit. Ta Som had a beautiful tree that took over a wall and Neak Pean was difficult to see because it was fenced off. The walk to Neak Pean was really special; wood planks along an elaborate man-made moat and a traditional band playing music made visiting the sacred pool feel pleasantly tranquil.

Carmen and the march of rainbow umbrellas

It is possible to feel both overcrowded and alone in these temples. Travelers riding bicycles and tuk tuks intermix with the busses of tour groups. We were amused, and originally frustrated, but eventually delighted when a group of Chinese women took over our photo with their umbrellas. In the end I liked the photo with the variety of color more than the one without the bus group.

Preah Khan

Preah Khan carved wall

Preah Khan is one of the most beautiful and elaborate of the temples. Many of the walls and domes have collapsed, but it is possible to meander and weave around the rubble to find beautiful splashes of red and green on the black stone. A security guard even showed us a place where we could climb to the top of the wall to admire the buildings.

Angkor Wat from Phnom Bakheng

Angkor Wat from west

The main attraction is Angkor Wat, and let’s face it, few know more about Cambodia other than Angkor Wat. We were still building up the suspense, so we climbed up the small mountain to reach Phnom Bakheng and view the setting sun on Angkor Wat. At the top we then waited an hour to be able to climb to the top of temple. There were several hundred people already there, but not looking at Angkor Wat, they were freaking out at the rather plain and hazy sunset. I love sunsets, but this one was meh, and did not deserve the intense shoulder bumping and screams of delight when it hit the horizon. A little disappointed, we returned to Siem Reap to ready ourselves for another temple day.

Wall frieze at Angkor Wat

The temple is dedicated to Vishnu

Carved window pillars

Exploring Angkor Wat takes several hours. The approach is a wide bridge that crosses a moat that is a big as a small lake. Through the main gate we have our first view of the temple from the ground. Huge fields flank the walkway with two smaller temples at about midway. Beyond the temples the elevated walkway sits above two large ponds that are used for the notorious reflection shots of Angkor Wat. We then entered the main gate and were memorized by the elaborate carvings. It appears that the temple was etched throughout. Room after room were carved stories of Brama, or the monkey king, or battles long since forgotten.

Angkor Wat East

Angkor Wat South

The Wat sits in its own shadow for most of the day, so we walked around the back and the side to get a better look enormous building There is a mountainous hierarchy of domes that symmetrically towers overhead. This a truly magnificent 800 year old building.

Angkor Thom South Gate

The faces of Bayon

We had rented some ancient bikes that appeared to have been operational for the last fifty years. But they worked great and we explored big portions of the Angkor small circuit. Angkor Thom is a huge walled complex that housed the palace buildings of the former king. At each entrance there is a huge gate with the carved face of King Jayavarman VII, look closely and you can see Carmen on a bike. One of our favorite temples was Bayon. This elaborate building contains 216 carved faces. The beautiful carved contours of each has stood the weathering of time, but like real humans each has aged uniquely.

The elephant terraces

The Leper King Terrace carved wall

A huge field in Angkor Thom has elaborately carved elephants into the retaining walls. This elephant terrace allowed for the king and companions to board their elephants when traveling throughout the region. The terrace of the Leper King also has an elaborate retaining wall with detailed carvings that meander around the hillside.

Carmen Croft, Tomb Raider

Thom Prohm dome

Thom Prohm tree take over

Thom Prohm is most known for being highlighted on Tombraider. Carmen showed us her guns. The abundance of trees that have taken over and destroyed Thom Prohm is amazing. Huge 80ft trees tower above while wrapping themselves around a wall or small dome. Streams of people and tour groups admire the beauty these ancient buildings being intertwined with a forest of trees.

Crazy sunrise photographers

The sun rises over Angkor Wat

I did not realize the hoards of people that were possible at a sight until I went to see Angkor Wat at sunrise. We have seen crazy tourists wielding cameras at the Cristo, Iguazú, and Taj Mahal, but this was all out war of photography. On the third day I woke in the dark and I left Carmen sleeping to begin my bicycle ride to the temple. The 12km seemed endless as a pumped the peddles to get there before sunrise. When I arrived, the scene was horrendous- thousands of people all trying to get the perfect shot. I believe in “camera karma,” but I had finding trouble peaking over the ten person deep crowd. Eventually after wading into the slimy muck I waited patiently. I watched a Chinese man take his 200th photo and I asked if I could squeeze it. The look I received from him and his wife was as if I was asking to go in on a threesome, cameras left aside, unfortunately they did not budge. The colors faded from reds to pinks and surprisingly all the tour groups deserted the banks. Apparently tour groups have a schedule because I remained, now with elbow room to admire the oranges and yellows and the sun cresting over the top of the temple. For a micro-moment I felt alone and peace with this beautiful sight. Angkor Wat is stunningly magnificent.

Sunset Angkor Wat moat

Pond lily

Some of the most beautiful and wonderful aspects of Siem Reap were not even the temples. A sunset on a reflection pool or the lily flowers blooming in the pond at Ankor Wat were as amazing as all the beautiful temples. I biked back to the hotel after the sunrise, but I decided to stop at a small market for breakfast. I pointed my way to get a bowl of rice porridge and a glass of iced coffee. We packed our bags and scheduled a regional bus. Siem Reap was short and eventful, but something was missing from the experience- good Cambodian food. Battambang here we come, and we’re hungry.

Posted in Cambodia, Southeast Asia and tagged Adventure, Photography, Ruins, Towns, Travel

14 Dec 2012

8 Comments

Making The Most Of 100 Posts! (by N&C)

100 Posts!

We made it to 100 posts! The genesis of this blog was simple. The initial conversation went something like this:

Carmen: Hey, why don’t we start a blog? That way we won’t have to write all those emails to family and friends letting them know what we are up to.
Nathan: OK (with approving shoulder shrug)

What began as an easy method to update loved ones quickly morphed into a full on photo and text journalist exercise. Neither of us realized the amount of work we would end up putting into the blog, but as we put pen to paper we became enthusiastic to share our stories. With over 100,000 words and 1,300 images the blog has become a medium for us to relive, share and promote our exploration of the world. Our efforts felt particularly recognized when our blog was featured on the WordPress Freshly Pressed site, which highlights top blog posts..

4feet2mouths is Freshly Pressed!

Beyond journaling, the blog has even become a way to connect with other travelers and travel fantasizers. The feedback we received through your comments is much appreciated. (A special shout out to our most frequent commenter, Manish!) On our 100th post, we would like to simply say thank you to all our readers for joining this exciting journey with us.

Machu Picchu friends

Looking back at the past 10 months it’s hard to believe the incredible journey we’ve had. As we reviewed pictures for this post we kept thinking,”Wow, did we really get to do all that? Did that really taste as good as I remember?” People often ask us what our favorite places have been but honestly we’ve enjoyed pretty much all of it. Perhaps we can describe a few favorite moments, though.

Chowing down on onion and cheese fugazzeta pizza at a crowded restaurant in Buenos Aires
Enjoying the soft sand beneath our toes on Rio beaches
Drinking wine in Mendoza, Cafayate, Napa and Rioja
Breathing in the crisp mountain air in the Bolivian highlands
Commiserating with friends about our aching legs climbing on the Inca Trail towards Macchu Pichu
Hearing the wonderful stories of Nathan’s 93 year old Aunt Bea
La Super Rica
Staring at the Cathedral of Santiago under a full moon after walking 500 miles to get there
Eating huge slabs of feta on the waterfronts of Greek islands
Smelling spices and sweets in Istanbul markets
Admiring the mystical ruins amid lush surroundings in Hampi, India
Slurping dirty noodles with good friends Nalat and Tim in Thailand

And that is truly just a handful. We are incredibly excited for what is to come – more great memories and mouth-watering food. Our journey continues through Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand as we make a counter-clockwise loop through southeast Asia. From Bangkok we fly to China where we will spend the last part of our trip.

Two hikers

The next biggest question we receive is how we can afford to travel for over a year. This is a challenging to answer simply and we will be writing a series of blog articles to encourage and mobilize the average traveler into the world. The key reality is that vacation and long-term budget travel are very different activities. Negotiating with a taxi driver to save $1 or finding a $6 room because it is without air conditioning, hot water or windows or eating food from street carts are daily activities for us. There is an art to traveling the world, it is a frugal expression, but it is possible. We have no bills, no mortgage, no car and only one mobile phone. Simple world travel is cheaper than when we lived in Berkeley! Most of all we had friends and family that supported us. We had the great fortune to gain college degrees with stable salary. After saving for several years, we took a leap of faith to sell everything and travel the world.

Buenos Aires Food

“Why are you not fat?” Well, our families tell us in amazement that we are looking thin. We eat a light breakfast and simple lunches and dinners. We search out great food and when it is good, we photograph it and put it on the blog. When it is bad, you don’t hear about it. Ten months of eating is a large number of meals, and we only have the best for you. Tasting the world is part of our journey and our passions, so if you are hungry when you finish reading- good. We also only choose the most slimming of photos of course!

Thank you for hopping on our Rickshaw Roller Coaster to see Camino Miracles and Carved Canyons. We hope you will be able to join us for the next few months as we trek across Southern Asia, return to the U.S. and search for jobs in Europe. Cheers to more great adventures!

: Buenos Aires

: Buenos Aires Food

: Rio Cristo

: Rio favela

: Ihla do Mel sunset

: Malbec grapes

: Tafi hike

: Condoritos

: Locro and empanadas

: Cafayate canyon

: Salar red lagoon

: Salar lagoon

: Salar jumping

: Bolivian hats

: Death road biking

: Coca leaves

: Lake Titicaca

: Copacabana party, Bolivia

: Colca Canyon

: Adorable baby alpaca

: Salkantay mountain

: Trail meal Peru

: Machu Picchu friends

: Llama Picchu

: Ceviche

: Nathan and Grand Canyon cookin’

: Horseshoe Bend

: Antelope Canyon

: Carmen and Highline Park

: NYC Toto Ramen

: Brooklyn

: Chicago deep dish

: La Super Rica

: Tres Sabores sheep

: Golden Gate sunset

: Burgos Cathedral

: Two hikers

: Camino landscape

: Octopus tapas

: The Pantheon

: Sardines in Greece

: Ano Syros alley

: Santorini churches

: Baklava

: Ephesus library

: Turkish yogurt and bread

: Unbelievable Cappadocia

: Romantic Istanbul

: Indian breakfast

: Indian markets

: Taj Mahal

: Indian street food

: Boat noodles

: Friends in traditional clothes

: Thai Island Bungalow

Posted in Europe, Latin America, South Asia, Southeast Asia, United States and tagged Adventure, Food, Summary, Travel

11 Dec 2012

5 Comments

Koh Tao-ism (by Carmen)

Beach view on Koh Tao

We disembarked from our overnight ferry and stepped onto the shores of Koh Tao (Turtle Island) off the east coast of Thailand. Despite the lush hills and palm tree lined shores I was seeing, I was slightly disappointed. There was more rocky cove and less sandy beach than I had been hoping for. We decided to walk north to see what we found. Three kilometers later we winded our way down the path to Bow Thong Resort and found what I was looking for: a little slice of paradise.

Our bungalow

After quickly settling into our little bungalow, we threw on our swim suits and hopped into a lounge chair. Given the beach bumming in Phuket in the days previous, our trip was feeling more like a vacation than a travel adventure. It’s good to take a break sometimes.

The beach at Bow Thong Resort

We spent the day alternating between dipping into the cool, clear waters and hiding from the scorching sun under our umbrella. Since there was wifi on the beach we took the opportunity to call our families and gloat, I mean, let them know we were safe.

Sunset joy

Fiery sunset

The sunset was brilliant and beautiful. The colors merged between sky and sea in a fiery glow. As the day closed it also marked a transition for me. The next morning I woke up and was officially one year older.

Pork noodles

Duck noodles

I’m not going to lie. Spending you birthday in paradise is a wonderful thing. I started the day out right with brunch at the oddly named 995 Duck. The pork and duck noodles were the best meal we had on the island.

Koh Nang Yuan

Next we boarded a bright orange, blue and green taxi boat for the 10 minute ride to a little strip of sand called Koh Nang Yuan. The coral-strewn sand bar separates two crystal bays punctuated by small, lush hills.

Overprotective snorkeling

From our staked out square of sand we watched diving classes, which is the reason most people come to Koh Tao. But today we were part of the snorkeling crowd. This group was entertaining to watch, especially the Chinese mom almost drowning her son with so much floating gear he could hardly move.

Snorkeling bay called the Japanese Garden

When we made it into the water with our masks I was awestruck. The fish were yellow backed with little neon strips of warpaint under their eyes. Black with orange stripes. Bright blue. Neon yellow, green and pink. But the real show stopper was the plant and reef life. The variety of coral from leaf like shapes to stalagmite growths to flat geometric patterns covering rocks. We even saw brilliant purple anemones as big as basketballs. I really wish I had Nalat’s underwater camera to capture it all!

Enjoying the strip of beach

Blooming coconut on a bed of coral

After a short hike, we boarded the taxi back to Koh Tao. I will not soon forget this picture perfect birthday.

Eating carrot cake

But what is a birthday without cake? Fortunately a British expat opened a shop to ensure that anyone requiring baked sweets was not left behind. I enjoyed a very satisfying carrot cake, making me a very happy birthday girl.

Just another beautiful sunset

How does it get any better? Another glorious sunset, mango cocktails on a candlelit beach…let’s just say Koh Tao was everything I’d hoped for and more. It was the perfect place to celebrate my birthday as well as the big 3-0 (that’s the number of countries we have visited in our lives – not the number of years quite yet!) Already, country number 31 is in our sights as the temples of Angkor beckon.

Posted in Southeast Asia, Thailand and tagged Beaches, Islands, Koh Tao, Travel

07 Dec 2012

5 Comments

Phuket, Get Me Some Dirty Noodles, Extra Spicy (by Nathan)

Dry noodles with pork and dumplings

Enter paradise and you will find that thousands arrived before you and will continuously arrive throughout your stay. Sometimes we just have to throw up our hands and say “Phuket” and have a good time anyway. The hoards of tourists make it challenging to get amazing authentic Thai food, thus it became our motto to search for the “dirty noodles.” On side streets and alleyways, market stalls and hilltops we were going to enjoy Phuket and eat well too. Who cares if your restaurant has a peppy australian or ladyboy serving bolognaise, burgers and beer, we want noodles and curries over rice and make that shit spicy. 4feet2mouths had doubled in proportion with our friends Nalat and Tim. With scooters and sandals we were determined to explore and conquer Phuket.

Scooty Booty Biker Gang

Pork fried rice

Phuket is an island, a rather large island with multiple cities. We desperately needed wheels and it was hard to resist almost new scooters at $7 per day. It seemed rather funny that so many blondes and beach bebops rode around in just skimpy bathing suits. Instead we wore clothes, Tim and I fashioned bandannas on our heads, our ladies grabbed on tight and the birth of a new biker gang emerged from the depths of Kata Beach: Scooty Booty. The first stop was dirty noodles of course! We had egg noodles, rice noodles and crispy noodles with clear, spicy and red broths and pork balls, fish balls, shrimp and wontons. The second lunch of the day was a fried rice stand. Up and down the island we rode and not even a late monsoon rain storm could stop us.

Fluorescent sunset

Feast at Khao Rung Tung Ka Cafe

The evening approached with a sunset that made the eighties look dull. The pinks were so bright that I started to miss “A Flock Of Seagulls.” Back on our ~~scooters~~ hogs we ~~putted~~ roared into the night. We snaked through the jungle and up a small mountain to treat ourselves to a fabulous Thai meal looking over the city. Go to Khao Rung Tung Ka Cafe if you are in Phuket. We ordered spicy shrimp “dip” with fresh veggies, local greens pak good, satol beans with pork, coconut crab curry with rice noodles and a whole fish roasted with lemongrass. It was another Thai feast and oh was it good.

Phuket school of fish (Photo credit: Nalat)

Tim and I snorkeling (Photo credit: Nalat)

Floating leaf

We needed the fuel because the next day we scuba dove into the crystal clear depths of the Indian Ocean. Schools of fish fluttered around us of every color. Lion fish, eels, and cuttlefish entertained us with each artificial breath. We were able to do some snorkeling with a waterproof camera.

Three paper lanterns ready to take flight

That night was special across Thailand. The first full moon of the dry season, called Loi Krathong, enables a time of hope for the months ahead. Woven boats carry candles and wishes into the tide and paper lanterns float away with promises and dreams. We each released a lantern into the sky. The light frame and tissue encasing are carefully expanded with the ocean breeze then the coil is lit on fire. The hot air fills the cubic balloon and with a hopeful holding of our breath we each in turn made a wish and let go… They climb higher and higher into the night transforming to a tiny orange speck among the stars. The flame either silently fades out of existence or lights the entire lantern ablaze as a last glorified hoorah.

Phi Phi Island

Colorful boat taxi on Phi Phi island

Our next day ws another stuffed with beautiful sights. We positioned ourselves on a sardine can of a boat set out for Phi Phi island. The scenery was magical with black cliffs climbing sharply from the sea and topped with tropical jungles. White sugar-like beaches, coral formations and a variety of fish all welcomed us to this paradise. We snorkeled, avoided the crowds and snorkeled some more. The sun was intense and the water slightly cooler and refreshing.

Hermit crab (photo credit: Nalat)

At night we wondered along Kata Beach in search of food. We opted for the ocean view atmosphere over the “locals eat here.” Nalat must have told them to rock our world because this meal was the spiciest thing we have consumed in Thailand. At one point Carmen had tears dripping down her cheeks between bites. And all of us dripped with sweat to deal with the Thai heat. That night Nalat found this wonderful helmet crab on the prowl along the shore.

Grilled chicken with spicy, tangy sweet dipping sauce

Pad Krapow!

A morning at the beach and we were ready for more food. We trekked our way up to the busy main road in search of other Thais eating lunch. We found a guy grilling some chicken and the attached cafe tucked away. I had been craving pad ka prow, ground pork, chillies and a more medicinal tasting Thai holy basil. Again we ate more than our fair share, but real Thai food is so good!

Phuket waterfall

Lantern street in Phuket Town

With an afternoon free we rented some more scooters and unleashed terror on the streets. We visited and hiked to a small waterfall. We cruised the streets in search of restaurants, markets and whatever had people and food. Again we found ourselves sharing bowls of slimy and rich pork noodles. For dessert we grabbed a bag of rambutans and mangosteens to be eaten at the hotel.

Phuket sunset silhouette

Want to know the sign of good friends? Friends will join us anywhere in the world just to tell us that we are missed. Great friends realize that we might be missing good wine by now. Nalat and Tim brought us not one, but two bottles (a Bordeaux and Turley at that!). The laughs and conversation continued late into the night. In the morning they left us, the room felt empty and the reality of it being only 4feet2mouths was once again.

Boat noodles in a bookstore

Delectable boat noodles

Carmen and I packed our bags and made way for Phuket Town. We wondered aimlessly without our Thai guide Nalat. There was still hope for us as we did discover this wonderful Blog. There was only one thing that could sooth us from missing our friends…dirty noodles. Coffee shop in a bookstore: BORING, boat noodles in a bookstore? That’s AWESOME! A touch of sugar, a little vinegar and chillies, a dabble of fish sauce and a spoonful of dried red peppers and we were on our way to feeling much better. Noodles doctored to perfection!

Kanom jee spread

In the morning we were in higher spirits. The rain crashed in buckets overhead, but with our ponchos we stayed mostly dry. Breakfast had one goal- Kanom jee at Pa Mai. We doused a plateful of rice noodles with several curries and sat down at a table. A tray of crisp and pickled vegetables awaited our consumption. There was a renewed sense of strength within us, “we can do this, we can travel within Thailand.”

Bags packed full and buckles cinched tight we were on the move. Local bus to the bus terminal, then a five hour regional bus to the ferry terminal. A meal from several streetside carts delivered us more boat noodles, fried rice and spicy long beans. Sandals off, we crawled onto our mat beds for the night. The rumble and rocking of the boat was almost enough for a peaceful night’s rest. Goodnight Phuket, goodnight to our friends and family (and readers). In the morning we will be in Koh Tao.

Posted in Southeast Asia, Thailand and tagged Beaches, Islands, Phuket, Towns, Travel

05 Dec 2012

10 Comments

Giving Thanks Thai Style in Bangkok (by Carmen)

Scrumptious snacks – pork over rice, coconut toast, chicken satay

Arriving from Delhi, Bangkok was a breath of fresh air. Our smooth, air-conditioned taxi glided through the streets. It was a stark contrast to the bumpy airport ride in the bare bones taxi in Delhi. On the streets there were actual crosswalks to safely cross, vehicles often stopped for pedestrians, and there was comparatively no honking! It felt relatively quiet and welcoming – especially when we were received with a warm smile by our close friend, Nalat. As we hugged our hellos a lone firework was set off nearby – an auspicious start to our reunion. She ushered us in and fed us coconut pies made by her grandmother’s bakery, which she had just visited in northern Thailand.

Roast chicken with chili dipping sauce

The next day was thanksgiving. Our late night the previous evening meant we got a late start to the day but that’s ok because we had a single, thanksgiving-appropriate goal: food. Lip-smacking, finger-licking, irresistibly good food.

Nalat is a Bangkok native that we met during college. Over the years we grew close over our mutual love of cooking and eventually started a bi-weekly dinner party with our friend Brenda. So to spend the the next week and a half with a fellow foodie that can navigate Thai menus and food blogs and that you love spending time with – that’s striking gold!

Green papaya salad with crab

Our first adventure was a local market, well-lit, white-tiled and filled with produce and hawker stalls. First stop: crispy roast chicken with a sweet chili dipping sauce and tangy, crunchy papaya salad with crab. We complemented this with green coconut based curry over rice noodles and sator, a large bean, stir fried with dried shrimp over rice. The textures and bright flavors were exactly what we wanted in our first Thai meal.

Mangosteen

We decided on a dessert of fruit. Nathan and I were happy to be reunited with the delicious fruit we encountered on our first trip to Asia in 2009. One of our favorites was mangosteen, which on the inside looks like garlic but tastes more like strawberry. We also sampled a few pieces of durian, which were smooth, creamy and much less pungent than other varieties we had tried.

Thick boat noodles

Thin boat noodles

The three of us walked around Bangkok a bit stopping at Mont for hot toast slathered with coconut spread. We eventually settled in a cafe for a few beers and lots of catch up talk. Soon enough it was time for dinner so we walked into a restaurant serving boat noodles. Boat noodles are so called because they were once sold by floating vendors. They refer to a simple dish of broth, noodles and a few pieces of meat or seafood. Bowls are rather small so you can have multiple or just have one as a snack. Nalat gave us a lesson on how to order with broth or dry (naam or haeng) and noodle width. I prefer sen yai (thick) while Nathan opts for sen lai (thin).

Pad Thai deliciousness!

Our boat noodles were a mere snack for the main dinner – pad thai. This is the dish Thailand is known for. The place we ate was churning out plate after plate of the good stuff mixed with your choice of meat or seafood. You could even get your bundle of noodles wrapped in a thin layer of egg. The traditional Thai flavors – salty, sweet, sour, spicy – were respectively represented on the table with fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and chili powder. We customized the balance of taste in our pad Thai and dug in. I like that at the end of the meal the waiter gave us a sticker that says something like “pad thai is flying yummy” alongside a winged plate of the noodles.

Weekend brunch – congee and chicken rice

The next morning, Nalat and her mom greeted us with congee (rice porridge) and chicken rice. We relaxed while we waited for another close friend, Nalat’s boyfriend, Tim to join us. He arrived and there were more smiles and hugs. Despite his 19 hour trip, Tim was ready to jump right in to Bangkok so off we went to explore.

Floating clovers at the Jim Thompson House

Yes we did more than just eat! Ok fine, first we had pork over rice and some excellent chicken satay. Then we went to the Jim Thompson House. Thompson was a silk trader enamored with Thai culture and he built this elegant raised house mixing eastern and western styles. Even the gardens were peaceful and artfully arranged.

Solid gold Buddha

Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

Buddha’s toes

Afterwards, we explored a few buddhist wat (temples). The first, Wat Traimit, was known for having a solid gold Buddha that weighs 5.5 tonnes! Next we made our way to Wat Pho to see the famous reclining buddha. He definitely looked at peace lying there. My favorite part were his mother of pearl decorated feet.

Bangkok Chinatown

Duck noodle stand in Chinatown

Duck noodles

Chinatown had its own busy character distinct from the other neighborhoods of Bangkok. Mandarin drifted out of the busy restaurants. Sharks fin was advertised in restaurant windows. We were here for duck noodles served up by a stand that had carved some space out from the busy central street. The duck noodles were indeed delicious with their rich broth washed down with some Chang beers.

Wat Phra Kaew golden tiles

Wat Phra Kaew golden monkey and colorful temple

Traditional Thai costume session

The four of us squeezed in more culture the next day with a visit to the grand palace and its associated Wat Phra Kaew. It was laid out quite differently than a european palace – it was more of a jumble of different styles crammed in together. We learned about the royal family, how Thailand avoided colonization and how some of the buildings were inspired by royal visits to Versailles and Buckingham Palace. Then we got a chance to play dress up.

Crispy wonton noodles

We followed up the palace with noodles served in pork broth with crispy bits of pork belly thrown in. Extra crunch was provided by fried wonton. I, for one, can never get enough noodles so I am in heaven. Especially when eaten on plastic stools in a narrow, dimly lit alleyway.

The Thai iced coffee and tea guru

Moo Naam Tok (spicy pork)

Our last day in Bangkok was market day. In the morning we went to the sprawling Chatachuk weekend market. It’s labyrinth of stalls has cool t shirts, jewelry, shoes, housewares and food all mixed up together. We enjoyed some Thai tea and coffee from one steamy corner. In another part of the market we ordered moo naam tok which was tangy and delicious.

Amphawa floating market

Fried shrimp at floating market

The food didn’t stop there. With Nalat’s mom, we all made the 2 hour ride to Amphawa for the floating market along a canal. We sampled a variety of Thai snacks, my favorite being the deep fried garlic shrimp. In the evening, as a few fire flies were lighting up we boarded a boat and received an hour long foot massage as we floated along the canal to a lazy river. Pretty ideal for only $12.

Thailand is a wonderful place to spend thanksgiving weekend. I missed some of my American favorites with family but am happy to have shared the holiday with Nalat and Tim. I know I have much to be thankful for. Family to miss back home, friends to laugh with, a fiancée to hold hands with, and a world to explore.

THANKSGIVING CONVERSIONS
-Turkey with cranberry sauce – roast chicken with chili vinegar dipping sauce
-Stuffing – egg stuffed with pad Thai
-Mashed potatoes and gravy – rice noodles with coconut curry
-Green beans – satol beans with dried shrimp
-Salad – papaya salad with crab
-Pumpkin pie – coconut toast

Posted in Southeast Asia, Thailand and tagged Bangkok, Big Cities, Food, Travel

4 feet 2 mouths

walking and eating our way around the world

Archive for the month “December, 2012”

Num Num ‘Nam in Saigon (by Carmen)

Eating Like a Local In Phnom Penh (by Nathan)

Badda Bing Battambang (by Carmen)

An Adventure In Siem Reap & Angkor (by Nathan)

Making The Most Of 100 Posts! (by N&C)

Koh Tao-ism (by Carmen)

Phuket, Get Me Some Dirty Noodles, Extra Spicy (by Nathan)

Giving Thanks Thai Style in Bangkok (by Carmen)

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