May | 2012 | 4 feet 2 mouths

Archive for the month “May, 2012”

30 May 2012

Much Ado About Machu Picchu – Part 3 (by Nathan)

There is so much hype about Machu Picchu. Of all the tourist activities to do in South America, this one set of ruins seemed to be on the top of everyone’s list. The archeological site is very accessible with a short tram ride from Aguas Calientes. Carmen and I wanted to expand upon a one day visit to Machu Picchu, and thus we embarked on a six day journey that traversed the hillsides of Peru covering a distance of over sixty miles and four high altitude passes two of which exceeded 14,000ft. Our lungs and our minds were functioning at top shape after five weeks of traveling through the highlands of Bolivia and Peru. We were ready to see the famous, the majestic, and the spectacular Machu Picchu.

Tilt-shift shot of Machu Picchu (photo credit: BDix)

Our first glimpse of the ruins was from the sun gate atop a saddle of the east mountain range. The first five days of the trek were challenging, but included luscious scenery and multiple historic ruins. On the sixth day we woke up in the depth of the night to begin our hike to the sun gate. Four of our friends from San Francisco joined us on this trek and with bounding skips and strides we hiked the last stone steps in the dawn light.

Five hundred year old Inca buildings

The sun gate was a magical place for the Incas. On the winter solstice the sun shines through the stone pillars at sunrise and casts light through the aligned window in the sun temple. This would cause for a celebration because this day marked the shortest day of the year and that the sun would continue return bringing summer and harvests in the coming year.

Looking over Machu Picchu

We finally made it to Machu Picchu!We sat on the sun gate wall with our legs dangling over the cliff edge completely awestruck over the beauty of this city. When the Spanish arrived to Peru they went to work destroying the biggest South American empire, the Incas. Once a city was conquered, the Spanish would force the people to disassemble their most sacred temples and buildings. Then the Spanish would build cathedrals and monasteries on top of the ruins. We saw this all over Cusco where a very standard looking catholic church sat on beautifully carved Incan masonry walls. At other ruins only the biggest unmovable stones remained from the temples that once stood so prominently. With great fortune Machu Picchu survived!

Panoramic (photo credit: BDix)

The city of Machu Picchu is perched in the saddle between two mountains. The sacred river wraps around these mountains creating steep cliffs all around. Machu Picchu is extremely well disguised; The city cannot be seen from the river below or any of the trails that traveled the hillsides. The people never disclosed the location to the Spanish, and thus the whole city remained in tact for five hundred of years. Several Peruvian families lived in the city into the early 1900’s. The city became internationally recognized when Hiram Bringham made his formal discovery in 1911.

Masonry beautifully integrated with natural rock outcropping

Since this discovery this archeological site has been the most intact set of Incan ruins and the best representation of how the Incas lived and survived. The Incas were a resourceful civilization that utilized the knowledge of all the tribes they conquered. They built for earthquakes and carved grooves into the stones to lock them together. Enormous corner stones rock with the building and support it during shaking.

Tightly cut stones

The masonry was by far the most magical and seemingly impossible aspect of Incan building construction. The stones of Incan buildings and walls were precision cut with stone tools. Individual blocks were cut from boulders using a technique of filling small hammered holes with wood pegs. The pegs were soaked in water and as they swelled the blocks were cut from the granite. Final finishing of the blocks was done with stone hammers.

Various masonry buildings with sun temple

The finest precision cut blocks were saved for the most important structures. In Machu Picchu the sun temple is built from the highest quality stone work. Huge boulders carefully fit together without mortar and the joints are so tight that not even a piece of paper can fit.

Llama passings on a terrace

We enjoyed wondering around the complex. There were hundreds of buildings, each room, wall or terrace held a special charm that I experienced nowhere else in South America. Llamas shufffled around us on the ancient stone steps and green forested moutains soured in every direction.

Six hiking friends enjoying the view

At the far end of the city the only place to go was up. We bought an additional permit to climb Huayna Picchu, which is the famous mountain peak behind every Machu Picchu photo. The pathway was steep, but the clouds began to gloom overhead. In a rush of weather changes our clear sky transitions to a rumbling thick cloud plump with water that began dumping on us during our climb. Quickly our enjoyable climb became a slippery, uncomfortable scramble up the hillside. Carmen and I hugged at the rock outcropping that perched on the summit. Unfortunately the rain and the wind came at us from all directions and immediately we were thankful that we had those few hours in the morning to roam around the city. Soggy and wet, we climbed down the steps and walked back into Machu Picchu.

Incan bridge clinging to the cliff

Just as sudden as the rain came, it stopped. We continued to stroll our way through the city. Brenda and I decided to go on a little side hike to a place that hung carefully on the cliffs. On the backside of Machu Picchu mountain the residents carved a trail on the cliff side of the mountain. The cliffs fall thousands of feet to the Sacred River. One of the most spectacular constructions on this cliff was the Incan Bridge that carefully placed wood logs over precarious block walls. The bridge is small, but strategically placed to protect Machu Picchu from all directions

Machu Picchu!

Our six day trek had finally come to an end. Alongside our friends we conquered the mountains in a way that the Spanish never could, we made it to Machu Picchu. The city imprinted beautiful memories into our minds. During the train ride home I had that phantom feeling that I was still hiking, still exploring the mountains of Peru and still laughing and joking with my friends. In Cusco our group separated, but none of us would forget the epic hike of a lifetime.

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Machu Picchu

25 May 2012

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Walk Like an Ancient Incan – Part 2 (by Nathan)

Wayllabamba ruins in the morning light

We woke up refreshed on our third day of the trek. We camped at the junction of the Salkantay trail and the tradionally hiked stone Inca trail in Wuayllabamba. The village was originally an important strategic settlement of the Inca due to the junction of three valleys. The sun began to crest over the mountains and we explored the first set of ruins on the Inca trail. At 9,900ft (3,000m) the climate was still very humid and warm. The trail was engulfed within a jungle of vines, trees and grasses.

Apus Peru porters setting up our camp

Once on the Inca trail our mules and handlers returned to the start of the Salkantay trail in Soraypampa. Our gear was to be carried by a group of porters that all came from one of the small villages along the Inca trail. This group of guys was more or less a small army. Nine men joined our two chefs and together the eleven of them carried all of our tents and dining materials. They could climb the steep inclines with amazing power then run down the hills with surprising agility.

Brightly colored catapillar

View from Warmihuñusca pass, valley and Inca trail

Our hike that third day was delayed for some permitting issues as our guide worked to get us a better camping location along the trail. It was then that a bee decided to sting me. I am allergic, so for the rest of the week my hand and arm were not pretty as they resembled a balloon more than an hand. I soaked my hand in the creek, but as the afternoon approached I needed to slip it through the strap of my hiking poles and start moving.

Bromiliads clinging to the trees

The jungles were fantastic. Bromiliads clung onto trees in every nook and crevice. Wild flowers surrounded us with pinks, purples and reds. My favorite was the bright yellow lady’s slipper flowers that abundantly filled the tall bushes along our walk. Our guide informed us of the traditional uses of the plants; the people of this area have been able to create medicines for headaches, sleeping, nausea, contraception and muscle pain for thousands of years.

Beautiful forest along Inca trail

Snack time with friends

The stone path continued through forests of vines and trees. The thick canopy blocked out much of the sun. I was in constant admiration of the Inca who constructed this road 500 years ago that is still in such great condition. The frequent steps were carefully chiseled from local stone allowing us to walk through the rough terrain.

A delicious lunch of chicken, rice, potatoes, cucumbers and beet salad

Dinner of mashed beans, stir fried meat, salads and rice

We would walk for several hours at a time with breaks along the way. The porters would pack up the camp while we were hiking then later we would step aside as they ran passed us. Each lunch and dinner was taken at a separate beautiful location. We would sleep with our tents nestled into beautiful green valleys with llamas pushing their way by our tents. Our lunch locations held the promise of nearby ruins and with every meal we were satisfied with plentiful amounts of delicious Peruvian favorites.

Ruins at Sayacmarca

Hole cut out of stone so that entrances could be roped closed

The Inca trail is filled with historic ruins. One of my favorites was Sayacmarca. This complex of rooms and small buildings clung onto the ridgeline and served as another checkpoint for people traveling between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Immediately we are reminded of the remarkable construction and engineering knowledge that the Inca utilized. The carving and placement of the stones is precise and exact. Carefully carved channels direct and deliver spring water into basins for bathing. Fifteen-foot stone walls terrace the hillside with flying steps that allow for maximum agricultural production.

Llama passing

The trail was not just for tourists. Several llamas had also been using the pathway to transition to the higher elevations and cooler temperatures. They were pushy, but we were able to pass by them without incident.

Descending the mountain after Warmihuñusca pass

Lago Negra from Runkurukay pass

We crossed two mountain passes on our Inca trail hike: Warmihuñusca (13,900ft) and Runkurukay (13,800ft). It was a challenge to climb over these crests, but after five days of hiking we were ready as we’re ever going to be. Breathing hard with sweat dripping off my forehead it was easy to look back and admire the view. At the top of Runkurukay a natural lake, lago negra, sits gloomily on the cliffs edge.

Dropping into the valley and seeing Phuyupatamarca

Carmen and I at Phuyupatamarca ruins

The fifth day included five more hours of hiking with the addition of exploring two Inca archeological sites. The first was Phuyupatamarca that overlooked the beautiful Urubampa river valley.

Fading hills from Phuyupatamarca

The second ruins of the day were at Wiñaywayna. The complex mostly consisted of nearly a hundred terraces etched into the steep hillside. There were several small buildings and I was even able to find some gooseberries growing along the steps. We found llamas here too, but one in particular entertained us because it appeared deep in thought or meditation while viewing the scenery.

Llama meditation (Photo credit BDix)

Machu Picchu was near and the buzz all around the camp that evening emphasized everyone’s excitement. After months of traveling in South America we were finally going to reach one of the most famous historical sights. I was exhausted from the day’s hikes, but I was anxious and excited which made it difficult to sleep. We all did our best to get some rest, but the 3am wake-up call was difficult. Still groggy, we made our way to the hiker’s entrance gate into Machu Picchu. Just one more hour of hiking and we were going to see the sun rise through the sun gate over Machu Picchu…

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Machu Picchu, Nature

21 May 2012

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Epic Hike to Machu Picchu – Part 1 (by Carmen)

The last city with roads: Mollepata

I’ll admit, I was a bit nervous. Did I really sign up to spend 6 days hiking to Machu Picchu in extremely high altitudes and cold nights and potentially pouring rain? Should I have signed up for the train instead? But there I was, hiking with poles in hand and hours and hours of walking ahead of me. This was the capstone to our South American adventure. Throughout the past 4 months it had loomed as an exciting yet anxiety inducing event. As we had our orientation in Cusco, I couldn’t believe it had finally come.

Mountaineers

The most popular trail to Machu Picchu is the 4 day Inca Trail. So many people wanted to hike it that they started to regulate it, requiring pricy permits and guided groups. Its popularity is maintained, however, because it is the only walking route that leads directly to Machu Picchu. We were interested in the Inca Trail, but it wasn’t badass enough. No, we had to add an extra few days to walk past Salkantay Mountain, later joining up with the Inca Trail. It seemed like a good idea when we booked it with our tour operator, Apus Peru.

Hiking team at start of hike

Grassy valley and our lunch spot below

What made the idea more enticing was that I was doing it with five awesome people: Nathan, Brenda, Drew, Dan and Randy. On the first morning, we awoke early, met our guide Julio and drove a few hours outside of town to the trailhead. Our packs were loaded on to some mules and we promptly set off. From the beginning the views were spectacular. We were in a wide grassy valley called Soraypampa with beautiful skies overhead a no one else but our group. After a few hours we were already at our lunch spot.

A delicious lunch: spanish tortilla, quinoa, dehydrated potatoes and more…

The mules and 4 support staff had already arrived and set up the dining tent. It was here that we learned how well our investment into a good tour company paid off. The food was wonderful. There were five or six courses, local peruvian favorites and flavors that were new, exciting and filling. Each meal we waddled from the tent in another failed attempt to finish all the food. We were well fed throughout the tour thanks to our personal chef, Rutherford.

Nathan on top of the ridge

Salkantay from our tents

A few more hours of hiking and we made it to our campsite. The tents were already set up and we were free to absorb the view. And what a view it was. We camped right below the gorgeously snow-covered Salkantay Mountain. We watched until the sun went down and it got too cold to stand outside. This was our coldest campsite – it dropped below freezing that night and we woke up to tents stiff with ice.

Campsite on night one

Mountain lake that Nathan and Drew jumped in

The next day we got even closer to the mountain. It was going to be our highest climb, reaching 5,000 m (16,400 ft). We started off strong but had to take a fair number of breaks to catch our breath. It was in one of these breaks that Nathan and Drew had the brilliant idea of jumping into the small lake that had formed at the base of Salkantay. They ran down while we climbed up. I don’t know how they did it but they jumped in, and immediately jumped out of the icy water. Now they’ve got some good bragging rights.

Celebrations at the pass

A brief clearing in the clouds reveals…Salkantay

Pushing ourselves hard, we kept trudging to the top of the pass. And slowly but surely, we all made it. We all stood on the ridge, looking up at Salkantay. It felt so rugged and powerful, living up to its name which means Savage Mountain. I had never been so close to a mountain that reaches 6271m (20,575ft) into the air. It was breathtaking.

Hiking through the valley

Colorful fauna

And then it was time to descend. For the rest of the day we passed through more valleys, some with small settlements scratching out a living with farms or llama herds. We found the hike to be incredibly peaceful. We never really saw any other hikers. Just locals using the paths for everyday use.

Canal built by the Incas

Flowing creeks cut through the valley. The Incas restrained these waters and created canals that still contain and manage the waterways five hundred years later.

Group hiking continued

Towards the end of day 2, we made it to our intersection with the Inca Trail. We settled in and ate a delicious dinner. These always started with soup, then a meat entree, always accompanied with potatoes of some sort, and perhaps a veggie or two. We all finished it off with coca tea. It was the poshest camping I’ll ever experience.

Nathan standing on a huge rock

With day 3 we ventured on to the Inca Trail and all was about to change…

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Machu Picchu, Nature

18 May 2012

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Old Friends in Cusco (by Carmen)

Cathedral at night

Nathan and I arrived in Cusco at about 6 in the morning. The streets were empty as we walked the uphill journey from the bus station to our hostel. We dropped off our stuff and headed out to walk again and explore the city. The streets had started to fill up but it wasn’t with locals. Everyone seemed to be from somewhere else.After traveling for so long in places with relatively few foreigners, it was jarring to be in a city practically overrun with tourists. This was both good and bad.

View of the Plaza Mayor from above

The good thing was that they were ready for the tourist hoards with a variety of restaurants, cozy cafes, gift shops, bars, info centers, etc. The bad thing was that they used the opportunity to charge inflated prices for some of the city sights. The cathedral, for example, would have cost $10. The ticket to see local ruins costs $70! These are very high prices compared to the cost of
living in Peru. Someone is making a lot of money but it doesn’t seem to be reinvested in the sights nor in the town outside of the central tourist zone. Seeing how things are in South America, it probably ends up in a few government officials’ pockets, unfortunately.

Stone wall made without mortar or metal tools

But some sights were worth shelling out some money. In the 15th century, Cusco was the capital of the Incan empire. It was here that they built their finest temples and palaces using their best stone masons. Of course, the Spanish destroyed everything and rebuilt all the temple sites as churches. But there are still traces of the original grandeur. For example, a beautiful wall is just off the main plaza. It shows how magnificently the giant stones were placed together with no mortar or metal tools.

Another example of this fine stone work was at Qorikancha, the golden temple that celebrated the sun. The work was so precise and detailed. It would have been amazing to see it before the Spanish looted the gold that covered the entire walls.

Jumping for joy in the Sacred Valley

The true highlight of our time in Cusco, however, was seeing our Bay Area friends. Back in January we decided to do an epic 6 day hike to Machu Picchu. To acclimatized to the high altitudes we all spent a few days in Cusco. It was awesome to do this exploration with them. First we met up with Dan and Randy and got caught up over pancakes and paninis at Jack’s Cafe. Together we took a tour of the Sacred Valley, the farming region outside of Cusco that holds a few sacred ruins.

Terraces in Pisac

Nathan in an Incan trapizoidal doorway

The first set of ruins were the terraces and homes of Pisac. Built high into the hillsides these settlements were both closer to the apus, or mountain gods, as well as protected from invasion.

Temple at Ollantaytambo

Next we hit the town of Ollantaytambo which was strategically placed at the intersection of three valleys. It had intact terraces and fountains that still operate today.

Women demonstrating the dying of fabrics

As part of the tour we stopped at a textile factory where women spend a few months dying and weaving textiles, make some money, then head back home. The demonstration of how the alpaca wool is spun using a dradel looking thing, dyed with natural plants and weaved on a loom was a sort of a sales pitch but interesting nonetheless.

Lomo Saltado

That night we met up with two more dear friends, Brenda and Drew! We all went out for some roasted chicken but Nathan was a rebel and ordered lomo saltado, or beef stir fried with potatoes, onions, and tomatoes in a tangy sauce. This is one of my favorite Peruvian dishes. The combination of flavors and cooking styles reflects the Chinese influence on Peruvian cuisine.

Group at Sacsayhuaman

Tunnel

The next day we all took a bus 8km outside of Cusco. Together we walked the road back, exploring the various ruins along the way and ending at the famous and spectacular Sacsayhuaman. We hired a guide for this last site and within minutes we found ourselves in a pitch black tunnel dug out of the rocky hillside. As we emerged into the sun once more we found a circular area partially line with stones. The guide explained that a pool of water may have been there once to reflect the stars. I sat on the throne overlooking this pool area, trying to recreate it in my mind. It became very apparent how thoroughly the Spanish destructed these sacred sites and structures.

Me on the throne

The three tiers of Sacsayhuaman

What is left a Sacsayhuaman is whatever the Spanish couldn’t destroy. That includes three large terraces that formed the foundation of three important Incan temples. The temples are long gone but the enormous stones that formed the terraces would have required great effort to move. It’s hard to tell from the picture, but each wall is about 15 feet tall! The field in front of the terraces is the last battleground of the Inca against the Spanish, with the latter barely gaining their victory.

Chicharron

We finished off our ruins tour with a lunch at a chicharron restaurant. A few slabs of fried pork, onions, mint and some pink speckled potatoes hit the spot.

Cuy times

But there was one more dish to try before we all left for our hike to Machu Picchu: cuy (guinea pig). For anyone hesitant about trying this unique delicacy, I think the picture confirms your worst nightmares. Fortunately, none of the members of our group were intimdated. We dug in and found that cuy offered a dark, gamey taste. It was fun to try but not anything I’ll be craving soon.

I enjoyed how history came alive in Cusco. But it was time to pack our bags and start the hike of a lifetime.

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Friends, Ruins, Towns

14 May 2012

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Climbing In and Out of Colca Canyon (by Nathan)

Colca Canyon

Waking up at 3am is never easy, when traveling it is sometimes a necessity. But when the plan is to hike in and out of the deepest canyon in the world we were excited. A van picked us up at the hostel in Arequipa and we cruised through the darkness of the night and into the mountains. By sunrise we had crossed the high mountain pass at 5,000m (16,500ft) and we descended to the cliff’s edge. Our destination: the Colca Canyon with winding cliff trails, historic villages and expansive, gorgeous sights.

Andean condors flying through the canyon

The andean condor had already mesmerized Carmen and me on that exhausting day in Argentina, but along the Colca Canyon the condors have survived and flourished for thousands of years. At the Cruz de los Condores we watched five giant birds soar majestically through the air. With minimal effort they utilized the wind and the rising heat to pull themselves thousands of feet above our heads.

Carmen and I hiking in Colca Canyon

Our hike began mid-morning and nearly two-thirds down into the canyon. The canyon is huge, but much less drastic than the Grand Canyon in Arizona. The Rio Colcahas cut through a volcanic mountain range with summits at 5,500m (18,000 ft) and the river below rests at around 2,000m (6,600ft). Our descent was rocky, loose and steep. Our knees and feet ached after dropping 900m (3,000ft) in the first two hours. A quick jump in the river and I was refreshed and ready to continue.

Colca Rock Face

Rio Colca

The villages in these mountains have a remarkable history. Tribes of people have lived here for thousands of years. They farmed the steep hillsides by notching terraces, called andenes, into the slopes. Each terrace was irrigated by local springs and the vegetables were optimized for the microclimates. Thousands of potato varieties exist in Peru as well as primary crops of corn and quinoa; each crop was planted and harvested to the heat, moisture and soil that varies from terrace to terrace. The people here survived before Inca times. They flourished with Inca civilization and now the communities hang on to difficult lives that are locked high into the mountainside.

Corn cobs drying in the sun

The villages house several families and many of the towns take over two days to walk to. There is one poorly kept clinic that provides meager guidance and healthcare to the people. This was probably the most upsetting part of the hike because we spoke with and observed people that were brutally poor, yet we paid an entry into the park of $26. This money did not go into roads, which were dirt, or signage, that did not exist, or residents, who did not even know that tourists pay over $100,000 per day to the region. In this way, the hike was a cultural experience in addition to a natural one.

Terraced hillsides of Colca Canyon

Our lunch spot was San Juan de Cucho, which was 1,000ft of ascent from the river. Our guide cooked us some lomo saltado and we enjoyed a conversation with our new friends. While the rest of my group napped I hiked up the steep mountainside. I followed a narrow path that tightly cut through the brush and grass and I switched back and forth up the mountain. I peered through the bushes to find another village, or at least the remnants of a village. Beautiful stone walls peeked out of tall grass and trees grew from the foundations of former buildings. I returned to our lunch spot and the group was assembled and ready to go.

Church in village of Malata

Our dinner and lodging for the night was in a town a few hours hike along the mountainside. In Cosñirhua we were welcomed into a small dwelling ran by two women and a five year old boy. The boy kicked a soccer ball with us and then laughed at my Spanish in our conversation about his front yard garden. In the kitchen a small pen housed fifteen guinea pigs, but we would not get the chance to try this Peruvian delicacy until Cusco. We slept in a room that crudely resembled a hostel but the room was warm, the bed clean and there was running water so not much more was necessary.

Sangalle el Oasis below and switch-backs to Cabanaconde

The next day was an easy hike with little change of elevation. It went quickly because we were all excited to jump in the pools at the oasis. Sangalle El Oasis is a cluster of buildings and huts that were built for the many tourists. Each group of buildings includes a beautiful turquoise pool. We jumped in the cool water and baked in the sun. The mountains rose in all directions and quickly blocked out the sun and invited cold winds to howl through the canyon.

Group photos above Colca Canyon

Our third day was challenging. We needed to climb out of the canyon. We started walking at 5am and pushed ourselves up the steep trail. Each of us walked at our own pace and in 1.75 hours I was at the top after climbing 1,100m (3,600ft). Forty-five minutes later, Carmen arrives claiming that she did not even break a sweat.

Nathan, a little girl and a baby alpaca

We hiked with an international group of people from the Netherlands, Germany, Poland and France. Each arrival of one of our new friends was a celebration. Both out of breath from the hike and from the beautiful views we congratulated each other on the three wonderful days of hiking. We picked up breakfast in Cabanaconde and lunch in Chivay that included a welcomed sight of a baby alpaca and young girl dressed in the traditional fabrics and hat of the region.

Alpacas grazing along the side of the road

It was an exhausting couple of days, but for Carmen and I this was only practice for the six days of hiking that we had planned to Machu Picchu. First we needed to get to Cuzco…

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Canyons, Nature

10 May 2012

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Delicious Eats in Arequipa (by Carmen)

We finally made it to the last country on our South America itinerary – Peru! We have been looking forward to this moment for a long time. The reason, simply, is the food. I have always loved Peruvian food. A childhood friend’s Peruvian mother exposed me to the cuisine early on. And I couldn’t get enough of the roasted chicken at a Peruvian restaurant my family would frequent when I was young. But now I was at the source, ready to to make new culinary discoveries as well as seek out some of my favorite dishes.

Mototaxi!

We were on our way to Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city. But to get there we first had to spend a night in Puno, a small city near the Bolivian border. Not a whole lot going on there but we did get to ride the cute little mototaxi between the hostel and the bus station. I loved it! I’m sure we’ll be seeing tons more once we get to Asia.

Sunset in the Plaza Mayor

Me and the Cathedral

Once in Arequipa, we found a lovely city with pretty architecture, a bustling center, and dramatic mountains surrounding it. The city was living up to its reputation of being a great place to stroll around but we wanted to check out its other claim to fame: gastronomic excellence. We wasted no time in getting to Zig Zag, a cozy upscale restaurant in the old part of town.

Trio of meats with creamed quinoa at Zig Zag

Zig Zag was fun, if a bit over the top (we were served a cocktail for two out of an ostrich egg cup). We indulged in their specialty, which involves your choice of meats that come out of the kitchen still sizzling on a lava rock. We opted for pork, alpaca and lamb, which came with little triangle flags announcing each one. The perfectly cooked meats were paired with creamed quinoa and a few dipping salsas. For our next meal, we decided we were ready for Peru’s famous seafood dishes.

Leche de Tigre

Ceviche at El Cebillano

So we asked our hostel owner where the best ceviche in town could be found. She directed us to El Cebillano which turned out to be excellent advice. We started off with some delicious leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), which is a small glass of the acidic juice they soak the seafood in. Nathan asked for his to be picante, and I think it was the spiciest thing I ever tasted. It was like pure chile juice! Next up we got ceviche de pulpo (octopus ceviche) served three different ways. In the states, we are more familiar with the ceviche that is soaked in lemon juice. In South America, we’ve also encountered creamy ceviches. These are tasty but I still prefer the sourness of the lemon.

Chupa de Camarón

Rocoto Relleno with potatoes

Another recommendation from the hostel took us to El Nuevo Palomino. Here we opted for an Arequipean specialty, chupa de camarón. It is basically a seafood stew with a wonderful, creamy broth. Hints of saffron and paprika made the flavors reminiscent of spanish paella. And the dish was enormous. This picture is of just one of our bowls after we asked them if we could split it. We really didn’t need the side dish of rocoto relleno (a pepper stuffed with veggies, cheese and ground meat) but we couldn’t resist. Rocoto relleno turned out to be one of our favorite Peruvian finds.

Central market in Arequipa

We had satisfied our fine dining fix while in Arequipa and it was time to hit our favorite part of any town, the market. This one didn’t disappoint, with lots of people and a balcony to watch all the action below.

Chicharron stand

It was in the market that we found one of my favorite snacks in Peru, the chicharron (fried pork) sandwhich. They sliced up a big slab of chicharron, slapped it on a bun, slathered it with salsa and onions and handed over all for about $1. Just perfect. As you can tell by now, Peruvian cuisine isn’t very vegetarian friendly. We were still missing our veggies but at least the flavor range and been seriously improved in Peru.

Bakery stand at the market

Our beloved guagua

There was one more find at the market, our guagua de pan (bread baby). We happened to be there on Mother’s Day and the tradition is to buy these little bread loaves in the shape of bundled infants. They have these tiny ceramic faces baked into them – I found them irresistibly cute. And the sweet bread was surprisingly tasty!

Our stopover in Arequipa was a great (re)introduction to Peruvian food and I was looking forward to more in Cuzco and Lima.

Posted in Latin America, Peru and tagged Food, Small Cities

07 May 2012

Dancing and Hiking in Copacabana and Isla Del Sol Bolivia (by Nathan)

Copacabana Bolivia

A trip through Bolivia would never be complete without seeing Copacabana and Lake Titicaca. Carmen insisted that we stop here and we discovered a small cultural center tucked into a beautiful lake bay.

Two plates of trout

Sunset on Copacabana harbor

The most delicious thing about a town positioned on a lake is that there is access to fresh fish. For weeks we had been chanting “trucha!” as a way to bring up spirits and remember the funny feijoada experience in Rio. Now, in Copacabana, there were restaurants everywhere serving trout twenty different ways. And they are all really good. We found a lakeside kiosk and ordered up one fish “de la diabla” (spicy red sauce) and another “a la plancha con aji” (grilled with garlic). The fish was tender and juicy and by far the best trout I have ever had!

Our bus on a barge

But I’m getting a little ahead of myself. We arrived to Copacabana from La Paz on a bus. The bus saves some time from driving around the large peninsula and we all had to ride a short ferry ride across the bay. Even the bus was loaded onto a barge and carried across. Then the bus weaved its way in and out of the fingers of the lake and eventually dropped into the cute little town. We expected a calm, tranquil town, but instead found thousands of people and a raging party.

Parade dancing

Lantern costumes

Our arrival in Copacabana coincided with one of the biggest holidays in Bolivia, La Fiesta de la Cruz. It begins around May 3 and lasts for four non-stop days. Everybody participates and everyone was part of a color coordinated group. The women wore brightly ornate dresses with bulbous flowing skirts and of course a bowler hat. The men performed in marching bands or wore lantern-like costumes. Each group of 100 to 200 people would parade up and down the streets and eventually arrive at the Iglesia de la Sagrada Cruz.

Couple on there way to dance in the plaza

Dancing on the plaza

The party did not stop there. These groups would converge onto two main plazas. The marching bands would stand on concrete bleachers swaying to the music, blowing their horns and slamming their drums. Everyone was dancing in a sway and twirl back and forth. The dance actually mimics a fighting style as this festival used to be a way for men of different tribes to compete for land. Supposedly these fights still happen, but we did not see any.

Crazy firework apparatus

Throughout the day the song of the bands was only broken by the sharp crack and pop of fireworks. At night the pyros had a feast of lights, sparks, flames and kabooms to entertain the crowd. Carmen and I sat watching as what seemed one in ten rockets failing to explode in the sky came crashing into the plazas below. At one point they brought out this crazy PVC pipe apparatus thirty feet tall. Upon lighting it the pyro’s shoulder catches fire from the twirling sparks. He pats it out and runs for cover as the sparks and flames fly out in all directions. The colors and light illuminate the people that continue to dance next to this thing. I looked over at Carmen and there is a mixed expression of fear and intrigued excitement . The structure ends with sparks spewing out of a cross with high-pitched whistles then the whole thing catches fire.

View from our hotel room

Lofted bed and hammocks

Outside of the partying, Carmen and I found the nicest hotel we have ever stayed. It was called Las Olas. Our dining table overlooked the beautiful Copacabana bay. Our room included indoor and outdoor hammocks, comfortable beds and a kitchenette all for $42 a night which was a splurge for Bolivia.

Sunset on Copacabana

The festivities were a ten minute walk from our scenic overlook. At sunset our hammocks seemingly rocked to the rhythms of the trumpets. Throughout the night the horns entered our dreams and at sunrise hundreds of people were still drinking and dancing.

Arch of abandoned building

Copacabana cathedral

The city itself is very picturesque. The nearby hills provide wonderful overlooks and the bright cathedral is magnificent. Carmen and I wandered the streets maneuvering around the parade and tasting everything the street vendors had to offer.

Bowl of trout ceviche

One dish I could not walk away from was a woman serving heaping bowls of ceviche from her plaza tent. People crowded around so the turnover looked good. The end result was sour, spicy and crunchy with crisp roasted corn kernels.

Isla del Sol

Copacabana was just one reason for this destination. The other was to experience and see more of Lake Titicaca. This lake is enormous. The size of the lake is roughly four times that of San Francisco Bay and 0ne hundred times deeper. The lake is one of the highest in the world at 13,000 feet.

Terraced hillsides of Isla del Sol

We hopped on a ferry and travelled for two hours to Isla del Sol (the Island of the Sun). The island was sacred to the Inca who believed it was the birthplace of humans. Our plan was to spend the night and hike the ruins and across the whole island.

Sunrise from Isla del Sol

That evening we met some new friends Chris and Megan from Brisbane. Sitting in the sand and watching the sun set we swapped travel stories of their camping in Africa and ours of eating through Asia. We shared some bottles of Bolivian red wine and ate several aromatic plates of trucha. It was an unexpectedly fun night in a village of less than fifty people.

Pigs napping on the path

The alarm went off when it was still dark. We wanted to see sunrise on Isla del Sol. In the faint light of dawn, pigs blocked our path, and then we met a puppy that wanted to hike with us. These were our first Inca ruins and we were excited. The ruins included a village of stone buildings and a sacrificial table that were five hundred years old. And we were disappointed! Bolivia does not protect or care about its cultural treasures. Our sunrise hike discovered a group of vagrant backpackers that had cooked dinner on the sacrificial table leaving their trash to scatter the site while they slept on the ruins. A wrong turn in the stone structures and we found where they used the restroom. How disrespectful can these people be?

Inca ruins on Isla del Sol

Inca ridge path

The buildings themselves were small and not the high quality masonry we would see in Peru. The best part about Isla del Sol was not the ruins, but the walk itself. The sacred Inca trail followed the ridgeline of the island and allowed for endless views of Lake Titicaca. The water was deep blue that met the terraced hillsides that were cultivated five hundred years ago. We climbed and dipped along the islands spine arriving to the south side for the island. Another ferry and we bobbed our way to Copacabana. We immediately grabbed a bus and we were on our way to Peru. Copacabana and Isla del Sol already a memory of culture, a lake and trout.

Carmen on Inca path

Posted in Bolivia, Latin America and tagged Islands, Nature, Ruins, Towns | Leave a comment

05 May 2012

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Biking the World’s Most Dangerous Road (by Carmen)

I am not an adrenaline junkie. So when I first read about biking the “death road” I wrote it off as a sight I would definitely be skipping. But…in Potosí and Sucre everyone we met was talking about it. I started to be persuaded that it wasn’t such a bad idea after all.

View from the top

The reason it is called the death road is because of the statistics. In previous years an average of 26 vehicles a year fell off the 10 ft wide dirt road down the practically vertical cliff below. The traffic was two-way and cars passing each other would have to do so in the slightly wider than 10 ft sections. A more modern freeway was recently completed making the road obsolete, except for tourists on bikes and the occasional fool hardy vehicle.

Start of death road

The first part starts out relatively easy. It is an 8 km downhill stretch of the modern roadway. It was good practice going fast. But then it was time for the tough part (or for Nathan, the fun part) to begin. It was all downhill form here (literally, not figuratively).

Nathan in his gear

Nathan is an excellent mountain biker, having actually grown up in the mountains. My childhood experiences of pedaling up and down my flat suburban street didn’t help me much here. As I made my way down the bumpy road I cursed my decision to only get front suspension instead of rear as well.

The road

At least I felt in control enough that I wasn’t scared of the sheer drop I was riding next to. Even when we passed waterfalls that flow directly on the road. But I was definitely slower than the rest of the group.

Group on the edge

Riding through the waterfall

Overall, it was a great experience. But after 3 1/2 hours, I had had enough. I hopped in the support van after the guide announced that the last bit was going to be more “technical”. I knew my butt couldn’t handle it.

Nearing the bottom of the valley

We had started at 4650 m (15,260 ft) and ended the day at 1525 m (5,000 ft). Our sore muscles were rewarded with a dip in a pool and a buffet lunch. The jungle setting at the end of the trip felt a world away from La Paz, though it was only a 3 hour ride back (on the modern road, thankfully). So that’s how we survived the world’s most dangerous road!

Taking a break on a rare flat section

Posted in Bolivia, Latin America and tagged La Paz, Nature

03 May 2012

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The Return of Street Food in the City of La Paz (by Nathan)

Streetside commotion and Iglesia San Francisco

One thing that is common among all my favorite cities is good street food. I love experiencing a city that is vibrant with life on the streets. I love the excitement of the people and the craziness of community that buys and sells everything on the roadside. In some special places in the world some of the best meals were served from a vendor on a flimsy plastic plate or napkin wrapped delight.

Street markets in La Paz

In La Paz we experienced a return of street markets. The street vendors were endless; little stalls stuffed with produce, meat, blankets and DVD’s filling up the hillside with everything imaginable to buy. Thousands of people scrambled from vendor to vendor weaving in and out of the sidewalk and street and carrying bags filled with the day’s purchases.

La Paz hillside homes

I could spend days and days wondering markets like these. I do not even buy anything. I enjoy meandering from stall to stall listening to one vendor describe the perfect mango, or another flaunt a superior winter coat and the buyers negotiating for a better price. There is so much culture fit into these streets and I like to roam and soak it in deep into my lungs. And my stomach too!

Sidewalk bowl of lentils

Quite often in these markets we find men and women selling local street side fresh food. There are doughnut-like things with a molasses syrup, roasted turkeys or pork loins to be made into sandwiches and an abundant array of herbal and thick drinks served out of buckets. Occasionally we are stopped by an intense aroma that causes us to swirl our head around looking for the source and occasionally this smell is linked to a vendor with a hoard of people huddled around grabbing for some of the delicious eats. This is how we found lunch one day. Two women had joined forces to cook up several pots of food and carry them to their sidewalk restaurant. We had a heaping bowl of soup, pasta with lentils, potatoes and a salsa that made our mouths tingle. And it cost $1.15 for the two of us! We sat on a step and slurped down our lunch watching the people flock to this sidewalk deliciousness.

Iglesia San Francisco & plaza

Rooftop of Iglesia San Francisco

Further on we explored the Iglesia San Francisco that was originally built in 1548. There was a beautiful gold altar and a rooftop terrace that offered views of the city. The plaza below the church is a central meeting point with a constant stream of people enjoying the sun and people watching.

La Paz protest

Anyone who has been in Bolivia probably has been affected by or in some way has a story about a protest. The Bolivians seemingly protest constantly. Carmen and I were very fortunate to not have any of our regional bus trips impeded, but we did meet countless travelers that were delayed. The protests involve road blocks and fireworks. We watched from a nearby bridge in La Paz as hundreds of students marched along the main corridor. There was a steady booming of explosions as the students stuffed rockets into makeshift bamboo tubes held high in the air.

Presidential palace and Wihala flag

Protests are common to all social groups. Bolivia has one of the most complex populations in South America with the heritage and culture of the people originating from hundreds of different indigenous tribes. There is even a flag composed of a quilt pattern of vibrant colors to demonstrate the multitude and coming together of these people to create a nation.

Collectivo micro vans

City planning zebra

Just as there is a patchwork of cultural traditions in Bolivia, there is also a patchwork of informal transit. No formal bus line exists. Instead private collective vans, called micros, roam the streets calling out their destinations from the window. Carmen and I crammed into several of these vans to maneuver our way around the city. The competition for passengers makes for some aggressive driving. Therefore there is a planning mascot (a happy little zebra) that attempts to restore order to the streets by designating specific passenger drop-off locations.

San Pedro prison entrance

We could not visit La Paz without seeing San Pedro prison for ourselves. We read a great book called Marching Powder that described the life and experiences of one inmate named Thomas McFadden. Thomas lived in the prison following an arrest for drug trafficking. The prison is unique because it is in the center of La Paz and nothing is provided to the inmates by the government, not even a cell. Inmates rely on their families, friends and personal bank accounts to buy a cell and buy food in the prison. There are restaurants, stores and mini apartments all housed within the prison walls. Every prisoner gets a job in the prison, cooking, passing messages or even giving tours. Thomas started the tours of the prison, but they have since increased dramatically in price. The most amazing thing is that prisoners are allowed to bring their families into the prison. The wives and children are allowed to come and go freely throughout the day. Carmen and I showed up at the prison to watch the door and see the families and people living inside. Most of what we could see was this enormous trash truck parked tight against the doorway and prisoners carrying suspicious heavy sacks “trash” then covering them with loose debris. I would not doubt that they still make cocaine there.

Colorful hanging textiles

Colorful street

La Paz streets are intense with colors. Brightly colored llama and alpaca wool fabrics hang from shop windows in the area that has been nicknamed gringo ghetto. I bought myself a soft alpaca sweater knowing how warm and life-saving they can be in the cold. Other streets contained buildings boldly painted in with blues, yellows and reds.

La Paz dowtown

La Paz is unlike any city that we have visited. The biggest city in Bolivia is unlike lacks modern western influence; there is a rustic and rawness to the streets that is captivated and a history that is exciting. Thousands of white-washed buildings with clay roves sit perched on the mountains that overlook the city. The city is, in a way, shaped like a huge bowl and the culture and delights inside are just ready to be gobbled up.

Posted in Bolivia, Latin America and tagged Big Cities, La Paz

01 May 2012

The Sweet Life in Sucre (by Carmen)

Main plaza of Sucre

Sucre, which means sugar in French, is an easy place to like. Its laid back charm and colonial architecture make it a picturesque city. Think white-washed buildings, slender stone arches and a tree-lined main square. It also has an international flair with European style cafes and more than a few Italian restaurants.

Picture perfect arches

While Potosí grew out of the silver mines, Sucre was the location of an important law school. This school became the breeding grounds for the revolutionaries who declared independence from Spain. Although it took 50 years of war, they Bolivians finally signed their constitution in Sucre. The economic and political center of the country has since moved to La Paz but Sucre takes pride in the fact that it still is the official capital of Bolivia.

La Dolce Vita Hotel

But we didn’t come to Sucre for the history. We wanted to enjoy the easy pace of life. First stop was to check in to our comfortable hotel named, of course, La Dolce Vita. It was the most spacious placed we have stayed. The friendly French owners directed us to our first restaurant, an Italian place that overlooked the whole city.

Mirador (overlook) arches

As we enjoyed our yummy nut and her pasta we ran into two of our favorite travelers – Matteo and Gosia!

The official best pizza in Bolivia – they got the award to prove it!

We had a bit of an Italian theme going on as later in our stay we joined our friends for pizza. It was surprisingly tasty, prepared by a Bolivian guy who had lived in both Italy and Washington DC. Pizza, wine, excellent company – what more can you ask for?

Bolivian textile with the Milky Way in the center

While in Sucre we got a little culture by going to a textile museum. We learned how the colorful fabrics often worn by the women in traditional dress have meanings embroidered into them. This one was particularly cool because it depicted an abstract version of the Milky Way, an important celestial body for indigenous cultures.

Sucre street

Us on the rooftop

As sunset approached we ran over to a church off the main square known for its rooftop views.

The bountiful market

Delicious fruit juice

In the mornings we made a point to head to the market, which had a bountiful display of veggies, fruits, sweets, cakes and sundries. But our favorite part was the juice stands. Fresh fruit blended right in front of you all for about 70 us cents. All the juice ladies call out to entice you, offering 2 for one prices. It was deliciously refreshing and we visited 1 to 2 times a day!

Lunch at the market

On our last day we enjoyed a market meal consisting of stewed meats, noodles, potatoes and a fermented fruit juice. Afterwards, a final visit to a chocolate shop was a sweet goodbye to Sucre. That is, until the chocolate melted all over the inside of my bag. Oops.